Beans + broth = joy

Not to sound shallow, but I love those dishes that are between a plate and a bowl. What are they called? Oh, yes, that’s right: shallow bowls.

Here’s why I think they appeal: The meals that go in them tend to be casual, off the cuff, and, perhaps most importantly, brothy. They’re the kind of thing you could perhaps eat with a fork, but you’d need to finish with a spoon. (Apologies to one of my favorite podcasters, but I don’t own a spork.) And they’re just what I want to eat as the seasons change — something that’s not exactly soup or stew, but still soupy or stewy enough.

Table of Contents

• My next Zoom cooking class: LENTILS!

• I break for animals: Joy and Roma

• Recipe: Garlicky Great Northern Beans and Broccoli Rabe over Toast

• More favorite brothy recipes

If you have my cookbook “Cool Beans,” the image at the top of this newsletter will probably look familiar. That’s because it’s the cover shot, chosen partly because, well, I mean, just look at that lighting (RIP, genius photographer Aubrie Pick), but also because we all agreed that it perfectly represented the tone I was striving for in the book: enticing and exciting, but well within the reach of just about any home cook.

The cooking starts with dried beans. I know I’ve preached before about the glories of bean cooking liquid, but it bears repeating that when you cook beans from dried, you really get two results — the beans and that liquid gold infused with their flavors, along with the flavors of any aromatics you included, plus plenty of starch. That makes it not just tasty, but so silky.

You may have heard or read me also say that canned beans are an excellent, convenient product, and I often approve using them instead of cooked-from-dried when you’re in a rush, but … not today, folks. This is one of those recipes that stands on the shoulders of that broth. (Wait a minute, shoulders on broth? Ridiculous! You know what I’m trying to say.)

There’s something special in this broth, and I never would have thought of it had it not been for a conversation with Midwestern chef Lenny Russo. He suggested I try studding an onion with cloves before putting it in the bean pot. I was resistant, because, well, the flavor of clove is wonderful in small amounts but can overwhelm my palate in larger ones. (Could it be flashbacks from my college years when too many people smoked these before they were banned?) The key here is that the cloves stay whole, and of course, they are removed before you eat the beans, so they lend just a kiss of that round, deep, almost smoky-sweet flavor.

After you cook the beans the first time, you add more flavor in a skillet with fresh garlic and broccoli rabe (lending its gorgeous bitterness), drizzle some toast with chili oil, and spoon the beans and greens — and broth, glorious broth — over the toast in a bowl. The bowl may be shallow, but the flavors are anything but. As Lady Gaga and Bradley Cooper might say, we’re far from that now.

My next Zoom cooking class: Lentils!

Last month, I finally devoted a Zoom cooking class to my favorite ingredient and subject — beans! — and the audience doubled from the previous class. We had a blast. So I figured I’d continue with the legume love in March with a class devoted to the small-but-mighty lentil.

You no doubt already know how quick and simple and nutritious lentils are, but did you realize how versatile they are, too? I’m going to show you three recipes using three different types of lentils, and they are far beyond your standard stew (not that there’s anything wrong with that deliciousness).

Join us! It’s set for Sunday, March 22, at noon. As always, you get 25 percent off a ticket to the class as a subscriber to this newsletter; just use the promo code “eatatjoes”! And don’t worry; if you just want to watch and not cook (or pipe) along, you’re welcome to do that. And if you can’t make it live but want to watch later, your ticket gets you access to the recording.

I break for animals:
Jack and Roma

Recipe: Garlicky Great Northern Beans and Broccoli Rabe over Toast

Makes 6 servings // Storage: Refrigerate (without the bread) for up to 4 days.

• 2 cups dried great Northern beans (may substitute navy, cannellini, or other white beans), soaked overnight and drained

• Water

• 1 onion, studded with 12 whole cloves

• 2 large carrots

• 1 (3 by 5-inch) strip kombu (dried seaweed)

• 3 bay leaves

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 large bunch of broccoli rabe, cut into 1-inch pieces

• 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

• ½ teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste

• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 6 thick slices rustic sourdough bread, lightly toasted

• 1 tablespoon chile oil (optional)

• ¼ cup vegan or traditional Parmesan, grated or shaved

Combine the beans in a large pot with enough water to cover by 2 inches. Add the onion, carrots, kombu, and bay leaves, turn the heat to medium-high, and bring the beans to a boil. Let then boil for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat so the beans are at a bare simmer, cover, and cook until the beans are very tender, about 1 hour. (Alternatively, you can cook the beans, water, and aromatic vegetables in a stovetop or electric pressure cooker: Bring to high pressure and cook for 17 minutes if using a stovetop model or 20 minutes for electric. Let the pressure release naturally, then open.)

Discard the onion, carrots, kombu, and bay leaves. Strain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid.

In a deep skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Stir in the broccoli rabe and sauté until very tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it starts to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the drained beans, 1½ cups of the reserved cooking liquid, and the salt. Cook just until the beans are hot and the flavors have melded, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the pepper, taste, and add more salt if needed.

Divide the toast among shallow serving bowls. Drizzle with the chile oil, if desired, and spoon the bean mixture and broth on top. Finish with the Parm and serve hot.

Substitutions

Great Northern beans: Navy, cannellini, or other white beans.

Broccoli rabe: Mustard greens, dandelion greens, or kale.

Recipe adapted from “Cool Beans” (Ten Speed Press, 2020), copyright Joe Yonan.

More favorite brothy recipes

These are gift links to the recipes at the Post. Note that they require you to register but not subscribe. Gift links are free to access for 2 weeks, so if you want to come back to any of these recipes but don’t subscribe or want to subscribe, I suggest you find a way to save them!

Ravioli and Asparagus in Toasted Almond Broth

Silken Tofu and Spring Vegetables in Thai Curry Broth

Udon With Shiitakes and Kale in Miso Broth